Onsen

Dark History of Nagasaki, Japan

The A-Bomb, WWII and War

Everyone knows about Hiroshima (the bigger of the 2 bombings in WWII) but Nagasaki is often forgotten. Link to detailed History. There are some other historic sites I’d recommend in Nagasaki Prefecture related to this:

See the Map below for other things in the Nagasaki Area as well as a potential cycling route to see them all. 

Prosecution of Religion and Mount Unzen

Long before the atomic bomb was dropped, Nagasaki was famous for being Japan’s beacon to the west. Chinese, Portuguese, and Dutch traders have all passed through Nagasaki’s harbor and imparted a part of their culture along the way. Portuguese sponge cake called castera is still sold today as a Nagasaki staple. Dejima warf is a downtown tourist hot spot constructed to look like a 16th Century Dutch market, and Nagasaki’s China Town is Japan’s oldest and most vibrant. – National Geo

Along with Western influence came its religion. Christianity came to Nagasaki in 1543 with a Jesuit missionary by the name of Francis Xavier. The majority of the country practiced Buddhism and Shintoism. Christianity was introduced to Japan by Portuguese and Spanish missionaries, and it gained some popularity among the Japanese population. However, fearing the influence of Christianity and foreign powers, the ruling authorities, particularly the Tokugawa Shogunate, implemented strict measures to suppress the religion.

In 1597, a group of 26 Christians, including missionaries and converts, were arrested in Nagasaki and brought to the nearby Mount Unzen. They were brutally executed by being tied to crosses and thrown into the boiling hot waters of the Unzen volcanic springs. This act was intended to deter the spread of Christianity and serve as a warning to those who practiced the faith.

 

The Shimabara Rebellion

The oppressive treatment of Christians, along with the socio-economic grievances, led to a widespread discontent that culminated in the Shimabara Rebellion. Under the leadership of a charismatic 16-year-old Christian named Amakusa Shiro, the rebels took control of Hara Castle in the Shimabara Peninsula. The castle became the focal point of the rebellion, with the rebels using it as a stronghold against the shogunate forces.

The rebellion was ultimately crushed by the Tokugawa Shogunate, with a massive force that included professional samurai and the assistance of Dutch naval forces. The defeat of the rebellion further intensified the persecution of Christians in Japan, leading to even stricter measures against the religion and its followers.

One of my Favourite Anime’s Rurouni Kenshin / Samura X has their whole arc: Shimabara Arc based on this brief history of Christians and Rebellion in Nagasaki area: Amakusa Shogo is a fictional character from the manga and anime series “Rurouni Kenshin” created by Nobuhiro Watsuki. The character of Amakusa Shogo in “Rurouni Kenshin” draws inspiration from historical figures and events, including the Shimabara Rebellion. In the story, Amakusa Shogo is portrayed as the leader of a group called the “Juppongatana,” a group of skilled warriors with diverse abilities. Amakusa Shogo seeks revenge against the Meiji government for their role in suppressing the Christian population and the Shimabara Rebellion.

Other Points of Interest

November 17, 1990, Mount Unzen erupted generating a pyroclastic flow. The eruptions of Mount Unzen caused significant destruction and loss of life. More than 40 people died, including scientists and journalists, and thousands of residents were evacuated from their homes. The volcanic activity also had a substantial impact on the local economy, tourism, and infrastructure.

Amakusa (island just nearby) is offering free houses in Japan. Full article here.

Shikoku

Shikoku (四国), meaning “four kingdoms,” comprises four prefectures on an island in central Japan: Tokushima, Kochi, Ehime, and Kagawa. Shikoku is known for its powerful landscapes. Rugged mountains running east to west divide the island, and the southern part faces the expansive Pacific Ocean. Pockets of satoyama (里山), or foothill farm communities, are woven into the forests that surround them.

Shikoku is also known for religious significance – The Shikoku Pilgrimage, also called the “Shikoku henro (四国遍路)” or the “88 pilgrimage,” is a historic Buddhist route, established over 1,200 years ago. Inspired by a monk named Kūkai (who founded Shingon Buddhism), the pilgrimage and its customs are deeply ingrained in the people of Shikoku, Japan’s way of life.

Mount Tsurugi (剣山, Tsurugisan)

  • Mount Tsurugi aka “Sword Mountain” was one of the most picturesque hikes I have done. It’s exposed ridgelines and views made it the perfect day out. You can find more granular details here on Japan Guide. I would recommend some car shuffling/ Bus (infrequent timings)/ Taxi between the start and end points of the hike. You can find and download Map GPX files.

Other highlights around the area include: 

Other Locations on Shikoku

  • Dogo Onsen – in Matsuyama. of which Miyazaki is said to have based his onsen from Spirited Away on. To be honest I didn’t see much of a resemblance but it did look very impressive.
  • Uchiko Town – Yokaichi Old Town is Uchiko’s preserved street of houses where most of the town’s attractions can be found. This historical district looks just as it did over 100 years ago, when wealth and prosperity came to Uchiko through its wax trade. Another symbol of Uchiko is found outside of the old district: Uchiko-za is a full scale kabuki theater equipped with trap doors, hidden entrances and a rotating stage.

Bonus - Naruto Theme Park

Whilst not ‘technically’ on Shikoku it what sits on an island between Honshu and Shikoku is: Naruto x Boruto park Nijigen no mori (Naruto Theme Park). Whilst I have not been here yet – It’s definitely on the list!