Travel

Japan 2024 - Lake Biwa 100 Mile Ultramarathon And Kumano Kodo

A Rocky Road to the Finish: My Lake Biwa 100 Adventure

The Lake Biwa 100 is not just a race; it’s a test of endurance, a battle against the elements, and a relentless assault on the mind and body. I was eager to face this challenge, but little did I know, the universe had other plans.

The initial 25 kilometers were a blur of technical terrain, a treacherous dance with gravity. Every step required precision, a misstep could send you plummeting down a rocky cliff. But fate had a more sinister plan. A hidden, rogue rock, camouflaged by leaves and brush, caught my foot, twisting my ankle in a way that sent shockwaves through my body. The pain was immediate, sharp, and unrelenting.

Despite the setback, I pressed on, determined to conquer the course. The next 20 kilometers were a grueling test of willpower. Each step was a battle against pain, a constant reminder of the fragility of the human body. By the time I reached the aid station, I had fallen 16 places, but my spirit remained unbroken.

Fueled by ibuprofen and a stubborn refusal to quit, I limped through the next 30 kilometers. The pain was excruciating, and the blisters that formed were a constant source of irritation. The temptation to throw in the towel was overwhelming, but I drew strength from the words of David Goggins: “Don’t stop when you’re tired. Stop when you’re done.”

With each agonizing step, I edged closer to the finish line. The final aid station was a lifeline, a chance to change into fresh shoes and rejuvenate my weary body. I surged up the final mountain, my determination unwavering. The descent was a painful crawl, but I persevered, pushing through the darkness and the pain.

Finally, after 42 hours and 30 minutes, I crossed the finish line, 86th out of 350. The relief was immense, but the exhaustion was palpable. I had conquered the Lake Biwa 100, not just physically, but mentally as well.

This race was a humbling experience, a testament to the power of human endurance. It taught me the importance of perseverance, the value of pushing past one’s limits, and the incredible strength that lies within us all.

Kumano-Kodo Nakahechi Route

The Kumano-Kodo Nakahechi Route is a historic pilgrimage trail in Japan, renowned for its spiritual significance and stunning natural beauty. For over a millennium, it has drawn pilgrims seeking spiritual enlightenment and purification.

The route, often referred to as the “Imperial Route,” was particularly favored by emperors and nobles. Many emperors, including Emperor Go-Shirakawa, embarked on pilgrimages to the Kumano Sanzan shrines, seeking divine blessings and protection. These imperial pilgrimages not only elevated the status of the Kumano shrines but also contributed to the development of the Nakahechi Route as a significant cultural and spiritual pathway.

Today, the Nakahechi remains a popular pilgrimage destination, offering a serene and contemplative experience as hikers traverse ancient paths, encounter traditional villages, and immerse themselves in the rich history and culture of the region.

We walked this over 4 days per the below structure:

DateTitleTimeDistanceElevation
Thu, 17/10/2024Kumano Kodo Pilgrimage – Day 104:42:0714.63 km997 m
Fri, 18/10/2024Kumano Kodo Pilgrimage – Day 208:08:3930.16 km994 m
Sat, 19/10/2024Kumano Kodo Pilgrimage – Day 304:07:4714.41 km665 m
Sun, 20/10/2024Kumano Kodo Pilgrimage – Day 405:44:3018.53 km1,272 m

Would highly recommend staying in Yunomine onsen area after day 2, as it’s a long day out and a really nice little area. Note that you do need to get a bus there at the station at the end of day 2. 

Kumano Kodo Nakahechi GPX – download.

Four Days, Three Nights, and One Close Call: Our Yosemite Odyssey

The siren’s wail pierced the crisp mountain air, a stark contrast to the serenity that had defined the past few days. As I watched the ambulance carry my friend Joe away, I couldn’t help but reflect on the whirlwind adventure that had brought us to this point.

Our four-day odyssey began with boundless optimism. Kelli, Joe, and I, fueled by a shared love for the outdoors, set off from the Big Old Flat car park, our eyes fixed on the imposing figure of El Capitan. The first day was a grueling ascent, our lungs burning as we climbed over 1,000 meters. Reaching the base of the iconic rock face was a moment of triumph, but our celebrations were short-lived as we battled swarms of mosquitoes to find a suitable campsite.

Day two dawned with renewed vigor. We tackled the challenging climb to the summit of El Capitan, the world shrinking beneath us as we reached the peak. The exhilaration was palpable, and we rewarded ourselves with a refreshing dip in the icy waters of Yosemite Falls. As the sun began its descent, casting a golden glow over the valley, we found a perfect campsite, a stark contrast to the previous night’s ordeal.

On the third day, we deviated from our planned route, opting for a less traveled path through the valley. It was a decision that would prove fateful. The terrain was demanding, and the relentless sun took its toll on us, particularly Joe. By the end of the day, it was clear he was struggling, his skin pale and his movements sluggish.

Our final day began with a mix of determination and trepidation. Half Dome loomed before us, a daunting challenge, but we were focused on reaching the summit. As we climbed higher, Joe’s condition worsened. His energy levels were depleted, and he was showing signs of severe dehydration. The once exhilarating climb turned into a harrowing ordeal. With each passing hour, it became increasingly clear that we needed professional help. Making the difficult decision to call for a rescue was heartbreaking, but it was the only option.

The ambulance arrived, and as they whisked Joe away, a wave of relief washed over us. While the adventure had taken a perilous turn, the memories we made will forever be etched in our minds. Yosemite, with its stunning beauty and unforgiving wilderness, had taught us a valuable lesson about the importance of preparation, teamwork, and listening to our bodies.

My First Esports Tournament – 2024 Spring ESL in Dallas

For years, I’ve been an avid esports fan, cheering on my favorite players from the comfort of my couch. But this year, something exciting happened. I finally took the plunge and attended ESL Dallas, primarily to witness the thrill of StarCraft 2 live.

While the heart-pounding matches were everything I’d hoped for (seriously, the strategic genius on display!), what truly surprised me was the incredible atmosphere. The energy from the crowd was electric, and the sense of community was contagious. I found myself surrounded by fellow StarCraft enthusiasts, swapping strategies, sharing laughs, and creating memories that will last a lifetime.

But the highlight of the event wasn’t just the games or the camaraderie – it was the chance to meet some of my esports heroes. I managed to snag autographs and even have brief conversations with some of the casters and players I’ve admired for years. It was a surreal experience, and their genuine passion for the game only solidified my own.

ESL Dallas was far more than just watching StarCraft 2. It was a journey of connection, shared experiences, and a newfound appreciation for the amazing esports community. If you’ve ever considered attending an esports event, but haven’t quite pulled the trigger, I urge you to take the leap. You might just surprise yourself with the friendships and memories you create.

Trail Running and Lord of the Rings Locations in Wellington NZ

A beyond-awesome time in Wellington New Zealand. Although I was only there for 4 days – there was so much to do and explore for adventure and food lovers.

Highlights

  • Lord of the Rings Locations and Weta Cave tour
  • Surrounding Mountains for Trail running, hiking and mountain biking
  •  Cycling – building and expanding more cycling lanes
  • Food and coffee options
  • Affordable – from house prices to food. Rent seemed expensive but hotels were pretty good.

Wellington NZ - Travel Map

Kumamoto, Japan – The City of One Piece

“My fortune is yours for the taking, but you have to find it first! I left everything I own in One Piece.” – Gol D. Roger

Ever since, One Piece fans from around the world set sail for Kuamamoto, searching for One Piece (statues). The treasure that would make their (travel) dreams come true.

As part of a collaboration with Eiichiro Oda, author of ONE PIECE born and raised in Kumamoto City, a total of 10 statues of the Straw Hat Pirates of ONE PIECE have been installed throughout Kumamoto Prefecture, Japan! The One Piece statues are part of a larger project to help Kumamoto recover after the 2016 Kumamoto Earthquakes and are being built thanks to the cooperation of and extremely generous donation from Mr. Oda.

Statue Location Map

My 'Off the Beaten Track' Bucket List Travel Map

Aka the bucket list

The below Map is my ‘away from the ordinary’ locations that I would recommend as well as places I’m planning to visit in the future. I hope you find it handy instead of searching ‘most popular things in X’. Remember as a wise man once said ‘sheep who follows crowd loses identity in wool’.

It has made me realise where my interests are and where gaps may be.

Trail Running the Great North Walk; Newcastle to Sydney ~250Kms

Day 0 - Newcastle to Wakefield ~35K

The Great North Walk is a 250Km walking track which runs from Sydney to Newcastle in New South Wales, Australia. My wife and I’s current house in Macquarie Park literally backs onto the Lane Cove National Park which the GNW (Great North Walk) passes through.

I have walked and run many sections of this great trail and owed it the respect it deserves to traverse the whole thing. With some inspiration from The Backyard Adventurer and no plans for the June long weekend, I decided it was finally time to attempt it – in just 3 days (+ an afternoon).

I went up to Newcastle very early Friday Morning to work from and old mate (Rolly’s) house before setting on a sneaky ~35K ‘warm up’ run.

Strava Link

Day 1 - Wakefield to Cedar Brush Creek ~75K

This was a real tough day. Trail markings went missing when I needed them most, elevation was double what I had expected, only 11 hours of light. But that’s what adventure is – overcoming the unexpected. Originally I had planned for Yarramalong but decided to pack it it 10K’s early and tidy those up the next morning after a solid dinner with the Wife at Angel Sussurri’s.

Strava Link

Day 2 - Cedar Brush Creek to Patonga ~80K

A frosty morning made it difficult to start but I started with a bang – finishing off the previous night’s leftovers I ran back to town at ~5:30min/km pace and felt awesome. Tucked into some breakfast and set off again. 

There were some tough trails between Yarramalong and Summersby but it was nice, away from cars and I was lost with the spirit of adventure. Met up with Kelli for some a quick look in at the Harvest Festival events in town but had to quickly jet off as I knew I had a big day ahead.

Landed in Mooney Mooney bridge where my number 1 was going to bring me lunch…. but she wasn’t there. Turned out the 5am morning starts were a bit much and she needed a much needed nap… oh well, onwards! I saw a snake, got a horrible bleeding nose but soldiered on until kilometre 63 where my knee decided to breakdown. I marched on and took some nurofen to finish off the day but knew the final day of adventure would have to be postponed with my knew unable to carry me. “True strength is knowing when to call it” – The Fish.

Strava Link

Day 3 - Brooklyn to Sydney ~80K

Exactly 1 week later, a deep tissue massage and a rare visit to the physio – I had mentally told myself that I was ready to take on the final segment: Brooklyn to Sydney Cove. The Sign said 77kms but we all know how they lie. I knew it was going to be a tough day out so I set off on the very first train to Hawkesbury River station on the 5:20am from Epping and arrived to start just before 6am, then disaster struck.

On the train I realised I had forgotten my carefully prepared breakfast and coffee! I ate through most of my snacks before even starting but knowing that I could get a replenishment it would be okay. I also made an emergency pit stop at the local Cafe in Cowan to grab a quick bite and a brew and I was back on track.

I had to mentally push myself after leaving Cowan with some small niggles in the same knee that gave out the week before, telling myself it would be okay and keeping my mind on the job at hand helped get me through. As well as Joe Abercrombe’s book – The Blade Itself. I made good progress and sped up just as I was arriving in Thornleigh to meet Kelli who had already ordered a giant dish of sweet and sour pork. Fuel of champions.

I set off on my most local trails for which I’m probably the local legend on 50% or more of them and met up with my good mate Leighlan who had agreed to pace me the final 20Ks – legend. It really started to hit home as we were running past the Woolwich pub that I’d just (about) finished a 270K run from Newcastle to Sydney, nothing could stop me now! We smashed through the final few kms, finishing just before full darkness – arriving at Woolwich Ferry Wharf at around 6pm. A ferry ride into Circular Quay to meet Kelli and the final destination!

Strava Link

MetricsDay 0Day 1Day 2Day 3Total
Distance32.576.580.079.8268.9
Time (Moving)03:17:2310:34:5310:53:4410:40:4035:26:40
Pace06:0408:1808:1008:0107:55
Ascent Metres (m)5463,2262,2202,7838,775

Dark History of Nagasaki, Japan

The A-Bomb, WWII and War

Everyone knows about Hiroshima (the bigger of the 2 bombings in WWII) but Nagasaki is often forgotten. Link to detailed History. There are some other historic sites I’d recommend in Nagasaki Prefecture related to this:

See the Map below for other things in the Nagasaki Area as well as a potential cycling route to see them all. 

Prosecution of Religion and Mount Unzen

Long before the atomic bomb was dropped, Nagasaki was famous for being Japan’s beacon to the west. Chinese, Portuguese, and Dutch traders have all passed through Nagasaki’s harbor and imparted a part of their culture along the way. Portuguese sponge cake called castera is still sold today as a Nagasaki staple. Dejima warf is a downtown tourist hot spot constructed to look like a 16th Century Dutch market, and Nagasaki’s China Town is Japan’s oldest and most vibrant. – National Geo

Along with Western influence came its religion. Christianity came to Nagasaki in 1543 with a Jesuit missionary by the name of Francis Xavier. The majority of the country practiced Buddhism and Shintoism. Christianity was introduced to Japan by Portuguese and Spanish missionaries, and it gained some popularity among the Japanese population. However, fearing the influence of Christianity and foreign powers, the ruling authorities, particularly the Tokugawa Shogunate, implemented strict measures to suppress the religion.

In 1597, a group of 26 Christians, including missionaries and converts, were arrested in Nagasaki and brought to the nearby Mount Unzen. They were brutally executed by being tied to crosses and thrown into the boiling hot waters of the Unzen volcanic springs. This act was intended to deter the spread of Christianity and serve as a warning to those who practiced the faith.

 

The Shimabara Rebellion

The oppressive treatment of Christians, along with the socio-economic grievances, led to a widespread discontent that culminated in the Shimabara Rebellion. Under the leadership of a charismatic 16-year-old Christian named Amakusa Shiro, the rebels took control of Hara Castle in the Shimabara Peninsula. The castle became the focal point of the rebellion, with the rebels using it as a stronghold against the shogunate forces.

The rebellion was ultimately crushed by the Tokugawa Shogunate, with a massive force that included professional samurai and the assistance of Dutch naval forces. The defeat of the rebellion further intensified the persecution of Christians in Japan, leading to even stricter measures against the religion and its followers.

One of my Favourite Anime’s Rurouni Kenshin / Samura X has their whole arc: Shimabara Arc based on this brief history of Christians and Rebellion in Nagasaki area: Amakusa Shogo is a fictional character from the manga and anime series “Rurouni Kenshin” created by Nobuhiro Watsuki. The character of Amakusa Shogo in “Rurouni Kenshin” draws inspiration from historical figures and events, including the Shimabara Rebellion. In the story, Amakusa Shogo is portrayed as the leader of a group called the “Juppongatana,” a group of skilled warriors with diverse abilities. Amakusa Shogo seeks revenge against the Meiji government for their role in suppressing the Christian population and the Shimabara Rebellion.

Other Points of Interest

November 17, 1990, Mount Unzen erupted generating a pyroclastic flow. The eruptions of Mount Unzen caused significant destruction and loss of life. More than 40 people died, including scientists and journalists, and thousands of residents were evacuated from their homes. The volcanic activity also had a substantial impact on the local economy, tourism, and infrastructure.

Amakusa (island just nearby) is offering free houses in Japan. Full article here.

Yakushima, Japan

The inspiration for the setting of the Ghibli movie: Princess Mononoke (もののけ姫). It’s a pretty simple island:

  • Go for a hike and see all the big trees – see map below
  • See the nice beaches and coastline
  • There are turtles for snorkelling and if you go at the right time of year – hatching turtles
Old detailed blog.

Tanegashima, Japan

There’s only 1 real reason to go here: to witness a rocket launch. Believe it or not but this is the space centre that Pokemon base their Moss Deep Space station off. Old detailed blog.

Bonus - Kaimondake Aka Little Fuji

Shikoku

Shikoku (四国), meaning “four kingdoms,” comprises four prefectures on an island in central Japan: Tokushima, Kochi, Ehime, and Kagawa. Shikoku is known for its powerful landscapes. Rugged mountains running east to west divide the island, and the southern part faces the expansive Pacific Ocean. Pockets of satoyama (里山), or foothill farm communities, are woven into the forests that surround them.

Shikoku is also known for religious significance – The Shikoku Pilgrimage, also called the “Shikoku henro (四国遍路)” or the “88 pilgrimage,” is a historic Buddhist route, established over 1,200 years ago. Inspired by a monk named Kūkai (who founded Shingon Buddhism), the pilgrimage and its customs are deeply ingrained in the people of Shikoku, Japan’s way of life.

Mount Tsurugi (剣山, Tsurugisan)

  • Mount Tsurugi aka “Sword Mountain” was one of the most picturesque hikes I have done. It’s exposed ridgelines and views made it the perfect day out. You can find more granular details here on Japan Guide. I would recommend some car shuffling/ Bus (infrequent timings)/ Taxi between the start and end points of the hike. You can find and download Map GPX files.

Other highlights around the area include: 

Other Locations on Shikoku

  • Dogo Onsen – in Matsuyama. of which Miyazaki is said to have based his onsen from Spirited Away on. To be honest I didn’t see much of a resemblance but it did look very impressive.
  • Uchiko Town – Yokaichi Old Town is Uchiko’s preserved street of houses where most of the town’s attractions can be found. This historical district looks just as it did over 100 years ago, when wealth and prosperity came to Uchiko through its wax trade. Another symbol of Uchiko is found outside of the old district: Uchiko-za is a full scale kabuki theater equipped with trap doors, hidden entrances and a rotating stage.

Bonus - Naruto Theme Park

Whilst not ‘technically’ on Shikoku it what sits on an island between Honshu and Shikoku is: Naruto x Boruto park Nijigen no mori (Naruto Theme Park). Whilst I have not been here yet – It’s definitely on the list!